Sunday, February 2, 2014

High Dunes in High Summer

It's Saturday. Cyclone Dylan has been ravaging the tropical Coast to the north and by Friday evening had advanced as far south as Bundaberg. I get up at 6am to check the weather radar. There'll be no welcome rain for us. The cyclone is stationary and fizzling out. Ah well, at least we can go walking.
By 8.30am I'm up at Park Edge Rd meeting my walking companions. We're going across the high dunes down to Alexandria Bay and up onto the headland. First time for my friends.

It's heavily overcast and windy.We step from the street of houses straight into wallum woodland and trade greetings with the forest. It's so quiet in here, just one lone butcher bird come to welcome us and he's not up for a song in this weather.
I've never seen the forest so dry that the leaves are hanging, so thirsty. A stand of hardy blechnum ferns claims the track edge but there's little else in the forest under-storey but leaf litter.



Trees take on grotesque shapes. A big mama curls her arms every which way. 
We chat to an older Sunshine Coaster who gives my friends the heads up for walking barefoot.



The track softens into velvet white sand and climbs into "the garden", the glorious wallum heath of the high dunes. Banksia leaves have turned a rich gold with the dry season and the larger trees are sporting banksia men aplenty…the peculiar hairy and "wild man" seed cones.





My friends are in bliss mode with the beauty of the wallum heath. We share an enraptured little chat with a couple of young backpacking men from Germany with beautiful English. Nature lovers at 19. Yay!
How many of us can speak beautiful accent free German, I wonder?

There's something different in flower at every season and I'm delighted to see the little eucalypts that grow here in full flower with creamy honey-filled bunches bursting from their branches.




The sky and wind are still sombre enough to quiet the birds and it's a little strange to walk the wallum without their familiar orchestra.

It's a place of magic for the artist's eye and our cameras are busy capturing texture, colour and form. An explosion of slender green lines shoots forth from the snakeskin patterned trunk of a grass tree.



The sculptured lines and creamy lime greens of banksia bloom draw attention across the top of the low growth towards the taller forest edge. Streaks of thick whites paint the lavender grey trunks of a gum. Green and gold whorls of banksia and grass trees swirl through the lower storey.




This glorious garden of Nature atop the high dunes opens to the skies and views of the ocean. In the driest season, Nature displays her extraordinary resilience by throwing out plump stalks of velvety russet new leaves on a young banksia. 



The cloud cover is gradually opening to patches of blue and sunshine as we leave the "garden" and make the descent once again through woodland. I'm surprised to see the tall casuarinas so sparse in leaf. So very dry. Grass trees have some age here. 




I find another plant in flower that I've not seen before. Tiny green flowers on a waist high spindly bush. I take a shot and hope my reference books or a blog reader can ID.



The swamp is as lush with ferns as ever. A climbing maidenhair fern scrambles across a tangle of grasses and ferns. Soft papery trunks lift into the sunlight. Under the boardwalk, the trickling tea-coloured waters hold the world reflected.





The track climbs through woodland again and now the ocean's roar and pandanus by the track signal that we have arrived at Alex Bay. I catch a few images of goatsfoot in flower on the shore dunes.



The surf is heaving, a huge emerald green foaming thrash of an ocean. The windy weather has discouraged the humans who usually populate this beach, so we walk the beach with just a few. 




We climb up to the headland and wander through the sighing casuarinas and soft grass carpet, one of my all-time favourite places. It's summer so no golden paper daisies, but here and there amongst the ochre rocks, the little blue jewels of evolvulus. 



We take a little space to just sit and be.



Ah but time pushes on and meetings await. Time to return. Sigh.

So we wend our way back along the beach and through the many tracks that are marked with the number 5 arrow, finding a different return route. 
And here's another unknown plant in flower and fruit. It's a scrambling vine with milky white sap and a very colourful fruit (do not eat!), small creamy white flowers off the main vine. A very vigorous plant, spreading everywhere. Another one to ID.





The heat of the day is a little taxing now as we return, but the birds are singing with the sunshine. We give our thanks to the forest, and each other, and emerge to go our different ways.

This walk is around 5.5ks return (Noosa National Park, Sunshine Coast Qld, Australia). 
It's a beautiful place to commune with Nature but important to take responsible care of personal safety re swimming and dangerous surf, waves washing onto rock ledges, and safety around high cliffs. Further information is available from Noosa National Parks website.











Friday, December 27, 2013

Happy Christmas Trees

Christmas was coming. So I popped young Ben in the car and we slipped around to Fairhill Native Plants to do some secret tree business.
Needless to say it didn't stay secret for long when we came home with three trees for Mum and Dad. Four year olds keep no secrets except their own.

So come Christmas Day, Nanny thought it would be a great idea to plant the trees, wouldn't take long, great little ceremony to mark Christmas 2013.
Ah but I forget…it's been a while since we put the last trees in…and it's quite a business.
So out we go into a very warm day after a great Christmas breakfast of croissants and pancakes etc….we're good at the food.

The creek bed is almost dry, just some very murky puddles here and there. It's dry season.


Resident Scrub Turkey is resting nonchalantly in his domain, with his enormous reproduction mound behind him. Fledgelings have long since braved the bush on their own.


Last season's plantings are coming along well. It's been a tough and very long dry season after five months of continuous rain. The firewheel tree, the brown pines, the Eumundi quandong, the crow's ash, the rare lily-pillies, the palms all getting their roots down deep for the long haul.



Alex has a great crop of young black bean trees from seeds gathered last summer. Black bean trees make a fabulous forest carpet with their bright orange and gold flowers.


I've chosen some very special trees…a Euodia for its beautiful bunches of pink flowers that burst from the branches, a Red Cedar for its rarity and great strength, and a Davidson's Plum for the fruit to bring the birds who also bring the seeds of other rainforest plants.

Alex is at work sieving clods of heavy soil, Kerri is hauling the hoses, I'm raking leaf litter piles along the path by the creek, and young Ben is hauling sand. He's a champion worker is young Ben. Chip off the old block.






The first hole is dug for the Euodia, nice sunny spot. Lots of kikuya grass here, needs grubbing out away from the hole. Who is that mad woman in her Christmas Day clothes swinging a mattock?



Kerri soaks the hole, Alex loads the sieved soil that's been mixed with sand and leaf litter, and the tree goes in. 




Ben brings his trolly load of leaf litter to mulch it all round. First tree done.



It's late morning by now and the day is very warm…we need sustenance. Time for a break. We can plant the other two tomorrow.
Nanny and Mummy conspire to convince the four year old that he needs a nap…Christmas Day has a long way to go yet.
And well, yes, the only one who goes to sleep is Nanny, who emerges much later to find that "the men" are out there, getting those trees in. Like I said, champion.


It's just a few acres, but planting some special trees that are native to the area creates a diverse local seed bank that enriches the surrounding forest and provides food for birds and creatures.
Not to mention the jam we'll make from the Davidson Plum to add to the Christmas table when years have gone by and this Christmas has become a happy memory.




Tuesday, April 23, 2013

Is This IT?

Finally! Finally the deluge has resolved to sunny skies and we can go out walking again. Summer with its rainy season has retired.
We're heading out to pick up a wallum walking track that we know, one with unfinished business.
A bit of a false start and raven berates our judgement with ark-ark and much frenzied tree hopping. The track is entirely underwater, and there's a wretched smell.
OK what next?
Rose thinks there's another entry point further up the coast so we drive on. Traffic is backing up behind us so Rose pulls over, and yes, there's the park gate right there where we've stopped. Funny thing that!

Last spring when we walked the wallum track that's now underwater, we knew that we would return to see what was calling from the high dunes to the north. So here we are, packs on our backs and feeling so good to be here.
It's early morning, around 7.30am and the light is glorious, a luminescence that gilds the banksias and purples the shade on the white sand track.


                                                     Image Ilyhana Kennedy

We have our little yarn with Country, give our greeting and flow into our gentle wander.
Squealing in typical raucous fashion, three black cockies do the flyover, close enough so we can see their eyes. Rose is quick, points the camera and grabs a shot as they head off towards the sea. We give them a good Aussie g'day.

Image Rosalie Hall


Five minutes later another black cocky does the same, running late, gotta catch up. They're a funny mob.
The sea wind here shapes and sculpts the banksias and casuarinas so that they grow westward into the flow.

                                                 Image Ilyhana Kennedy
Image Ilyhana Kennedy

Curly sedge and occasional woolsia spikes carrying pristine white petals edge the track that is now rising towards the higher dunes. Tiny gold yellow buds line the upthrust of stalks on a geebung bush. And now here, this little scrap of a plant looks like prickly Moses...tough as.



                                                    Image Ilyhana Kennedy
                                                      Image Ilyhana Kennedy
Image Ilyhana Kennedy

Fat and juicy, honey-filled banksia flowers are open for birdy brekky.


Image Rosalie Hall
We're not the only creatures to wend our way along this track. A myriad of footprints and trails leave stories in the sand. And oh, look, wallaby or maybe roo print right here.

                                                     Image Rosalie Hall

We're up high enough to look across the swamp that lies between the dunes. Drifts of viridian sedges haze the swamp surface.

                                                                     Image Rosalie Hall

Back come the three black cockies, squealing still, flying overhead once again, and off to the even higher dunes to the north-west. Goodness, will we walk that far?

                                                                    Image Rosalie Hall

The track lifts further and we climb till Mt Tinbeerwah shows its peak. A little higher and the lake spreads its Weyba waters shore to paperbarked shore.

                                                                Image Ilyhana Kennedy

We're at a junction. In the track to the left a bike lies abandoned corroding into junk. Just left there.



Rose is filming the gorgeous blues of the lake and mountains. I find a little purple patersonia bloom among the twigs.

                                                  Image Rosalie Hall

                                                   Image Ilyhana Kennedy

We take the track to the right heading north, north-west. We're on a ridge now, a trail rising gently now, welcome after the climb. Distant Mt Cooroy is caught with telescopic lens.

                                                       Image Rosalie Hall

Tiny white rice flowers peep out from under the thick wallum growth. Ants are invading a creature's home, a splendid orb of golden webbing suspended in sunlight.

                                                   Image Ilyhana Kennedy


                                              Image Rosalie Hall


Then the track becomes an avenue of casuarina.

                                                       Image Ilyhana Kennedy

The casuarina opens again to a glimpse of Mt Eerwah and Point Glorious. We seem to be walking parallel to the lake.

Image Ilyhana Kennedy
                                              
We think we've walked a long way. But we don't think we're there yet, wherever IT is that we feel called to visit. So we walk on.
Suddenly everything feels different. There are trees over our heads. Beautiful brush box with peeling caramel bark and smooth pink of exposed trunk. Trees lush with leaf after the long wet.

                                                     Image Ilyhana Kennedy

                                                         Image Ilyhana Kennedy

So many different trees here. And this one...this one's a rainforest tree, lovely aromatic leaves.

                                                    Image Ilyhana Kennedy

What a special little forest! We're enchanted. Maybe it's a rainforest remnant. And then we spy the orchid plant on the crumbling remains of a fallen trunk, trailing its strappy leaves and ripened seed pods across the leaf litter.

                                                      Image Rosalie Hall

                                                       Image Rosalie Hall

We wander through the forest pocket and out into the open dry heath of the wallum. Is that IT? Hmmm.... maybe....let's just sit here in the shade and see what happens, have a bite to eat ( Rose always has good ideas).
Nice to rest in the cool. Grapes, cheese biscuits, a sandwich, apples, a big drink. It's warm now.

                                                      Image Rosalie Hall

Out of seeming nowhere, a runner appears. He's almost going to jog right past but we can't have that so he's called to interrupt his rhythm and have a chat in his very nice French accent.
We ask him where we are. (We do have some idea, but it's nice to get the local info).He's obviously come from somewhere inhabited and we think we've been walking for miles. Truth be told we've been strolling taking piccies, as we do. 

He's an obviously fit man, not so young, runs this track a lot, not used to seeing other people on it. Tells us where the track goes, where he came from.
As he's talking I'm hearing a whistling kite calling k-k-k-kew, k-k-k-kew.

The man takes off again. And the kite is circling overhead. And look, there's another... and another. Three whistling kites circling together overhead. We watch them till they drift high into the haze of midmorning sky. How wonderful. This will do. This is IT. Forest and raptors.

We rest in preparation for our "long walk back". Spangled drongo flits glossy black in zig zag across the corridor. Butterflies sail down the corridor, velvet black with red and white spots, tiger blue, creamy yellow.

The runner returns, cheekily calls us slackos as we're still in repose. He stops to chat again, and again the whistling kite calls k-k-k-kew, k-k-k-kew. How very interesting.
Then off he jogs and up we get for the return.
Back through the magic forest with it's understorey of pink patterned leaves. Obviously this forest IS IT, so very beautiful.

                                                       Image Ilyhana Kennedy

Beyond the little forest, we find mistletoe in bloom.  A sweet little honeyeater full of the joy of life comes to feed from the flowers, too quick to catch on camera.

                                                  Image Rosalie Hall
It's late morning now. A cool sea breeze relieves the rising heat. It's all downhill now. We still catch a few pics as we go, some hibbertia flowers, casuarina cones scattering on the sand, an elegant banksia trunk that suggests nature's frame.

                                                    Image Rosalie Hall

                                                    Image Rosalie Hall

                                                     Image Rosalie Hall

We pick up pace and discover of course, that we haven't walked as far as we thought.
We turn and offer our thanks to Country, for its beauty, its welcome, and its endless surprises. Yep! That was IT!